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Ever thought of getting into 3D printing but want to try it first for low cost? Part Two
Well by now you should be well into putting it all together. All the paper taken off the acrylic pieces and all laid out nice on the table ready for assembly. If your hands are anything like the size of mine then those tiny screws and nuts are a little daunting to say the least, so I found the trick was to stick pieces of masking tape to one side of the part that needed nuts as shown below.
Then I pushed the nuts onto the masking tape with one of the small allen keys and screwed the screws home tight. Now this kit does come with pretty good instructions, and even some video's to help you with the assembly, but there were a few points that I became a little confused with myself. The first being assembling the threaded rods under the hot plate. Getting all those washers and nuts in the right order was a lot of fun. I found if I pushed a screw rod through from the back to the front, and just when I get about 5 inches through the middle main section I install the washers and nuts on the screw thread from the front in this order. washer, nut, nut, washer. then screw them on to the rod about 5 inches from the front end of the rod.
Push the rod in from the back side so it goes out the front hole as far as it can go. This should give you enough room to install the nuts and washers on the rear of the printer body in this order. Firstly washer, nut, nut, and washer then screw them towards the front about 5 inches or so. Pull the threaded rod back through the back hole and put a washer then a nut onto the end of the thread as shown in the photo leaving roughly this amount of thread sticking out after the nut is installed.
Please excuse the dust in the photos I was doing a lots of cleaning up today of some models. It gives you some idea how far to let the threads go past the front and back parts. So go ahead and tighten the back and and center parts taking care to not bend any acrylic parts as you tighten them, better to get them in the right places and then tighten them by hand before fully tightening them. The front nuts and washers need a little bit of extra care, because you'll push the hot table smooth rods through the hole above the screw rods later and therefore when you go to tighten the washers and nuts up tight you can easily tilt the front acrylic plate forwards or backwards when it should be at a 90 degree angle, so you'll have to loosten the front nuts a little and tighten the back nuts a little until you get it right.
Next assemble the hot bed and some wiring tips in part 3